A colourful market stall at the top of the Transfagarasan road in Romania. The stall is packed with … [+] fresh produce, including cured meats and salami, fresh vegetables, pastries, soft drink and beer, and locally procudes wines and Tuica (plum liquor). Horizontal colour image with no people.
getty
Most European countries have long done better, than the States, in terms of locally sourcing their food. They are also generally more focused on using sustainably raised meats and produce, but the forces of political and economic evolution often push countries into the lazy supermarket-driven “convenience phase.”
That’s certainly true for parts of Italy, when frozen food started to flood the supermarkets. It is also the case for some parts of Eastern Europe when their economies started to grow suddenly and their borders opened.
However, it is always nice to see countries getting back to their culinary roots and that is something I absolutely witnessed on my last trip to Romania. It was incredible to see a vibrant local market, once ignored but many locals, like Obor get its grove back stocking hundreds of local cheeses.
The biggest produce store in the country, Bucharest Obor Market, is located in Bucharest. Farmers … [+] and regional producers showcase their produce downstairs, while meat and dairy producers welcome customers to taste and purchase their products upstairs. The image shows some market stalls at Obor.
getty
It was also a pleasure to hear that a large, corporate chain—the J.W. Marriott—had a chef who was buying all of a producer’s locally grown raspberries. The 400+-room hotel features an over-the-top weekend brunch; the JW Steakhouse; Cucina, an Italian restaurant; and Olea, a Mediterranean- and Middle Eastern-influenced restaurant.
So, I sat down with Nicolae Lica, the executive chef of Bucharest’s JW Marriott, to get a closer look at how the local culinary scene is shaping up. All responses have been edited and condensed for clarity.
Liza B. Zimmerman: When did Romania lose its interest in locally sourced food and why?
Lica oversees the restaurants at the JW Marrriott Bucharest.
Cosan Goksel
Nicolae Lica (N.L.):Romania has never truly lost its connection to locally sourced food; in fact, local and seasonal ingredients have always been deeply embedded in our culinary culture. The use of these products is a cornerstone of Romanian gastronomy.
L.B.Z.: When did the country take new interest in local food and why?
N.L.: In recent years, there has been a renewed and passionate embrace of Romanian cuisine, driven by culinary trends and a heightened appreciation of locally sourced ingredients. This resurgence has brought a deeper focus on sourcing premium local products, not only for their unparalleled quality but also for their role in supporting sustainability.
L.B.Z.: What differences are you seeing in food sourcing as a result?
N.L.: We are witnessing remarkable growth among local producers who have developed a deep understanding of the sophisticated demands of the HoReCa (hotel, restaurant and catering) industry. These dedicated producers are now cultivating bespoke fruits and vegetables. This close collaboration not only elevates the dining experience for our guests, but also strengthens the local agricultural community, fostering a sustainable partnership that brings the best of Romania’s produce to the table.
Brunch at the Marriott in Bucharest.
Mihai Georgiadi
Our breakfast buffet and our Romanian famous brunch showcase this commitment to local sourcing with farm-fresh eggs, artisanal cheeses, homemade jams and freshly baked bread, all from trusted local producers. This focus continues in our à la carte offerings, which highlight regional specialties and seasonal produce.
L.B.Z.: How is the overall diet in the country changing with a new focus on locally sourced foods?
Traditional Romania Food at a local brunch in Transylvania
getty
N.L.: Over the years, there has been a significant shift in the way consumers approach their diet, with a growing understanding and appreciation for seasonal products. More and more, people are choosing to enjoy fruits and vegetables at their peak, rather than relying on out-of-season imports.
This renewed focus on seasonality comes from a deepening relationship with local markets, such as Obor, where small, locally sourced producers educate consumers about the natural rhythms of the land. So, people are rediscovering the importance of the fertility of their fields and the authenticity of seasonal eating.
Brunch at Olea at the JW Marriott Bucharest.
Mihai Georgiadi
This shift in mindset has not only transformed the diet of the country but has also significantly influenced the hospitality industry’s approach to food. Restaurants and hotels are increasingly prioritizing local, seasonal ingredients to offer guests the freshest and most flavorful dining experiences. This movement toward locally sourced foods is creating a deeper connection between consumers, producers, and the land, reinforcing the value of sustainability and the rich agricultural heritage of Romania. In doing so, it’s reshaping both everyday diets and the future of the food industry across the country.
L.B.Z.: What kinds of fruit and vegetables, and meats, are you seeing as a result of this renewed interest in local sourcing?
N.L.: Romania offers an extraordinary variety of products, including tender asparagus, heirloom tomatoes, delicate zucchini flowers and an exceptional array of fresh herbs. The country is also renowned for Black Angus beef, tender lamb and a range of pork varieties, as well as exquisite poultry. Locally crafted smoked cheeses and artisanal cold cuts further embody the essence of Romania’s culinary traditions, and these ingredients proudly feature in our menus, offering guests an authentic taste of the region’s rich gastronomic heritage.