Breadcrumb Trail Links

This week let’s search for bottles off the well-trodden wine path.

wine guy james nevisonPhoto by Ekaterina Molchanova /Getty Images

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The world of wine is truly diverse, but the reality is most wine drinkers stick to a relatively small sample set. No judgment, it makes sense: lives are busy, it’s comforting to stick to what you know. It’s also true that bottled representation is skewed to the main wine producing countries as evidenced from a quick stroll through the local bottle shop. However, there are fun, even unexpected wines lurking in the margins. This week let’s search for bottles off the well-trodden wine path.

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Wine Guy

Bodegas Los Bermejos 2022 Lanzarote Malvasía Volcánica, Spain

($35.99, #12135)

Sure, there are loads of wines available from Spain. But look closer at the label and you’ll find that Lanzarote hails from the Canary Islands. Part of Spain, but about as far removed as possible from the famed valleys of La Rioja or plains of Castilla-La Mancha. Grown in volcanic soils, this aromatic Malvasía is extremely engaging. There’s an overall intensity complemented by intriguing aromas and flavours: citrus, pith, flowers, and herbs. Coming across more saline and mineral than overtly fruity, a robust entry leads to enticing texture and an assertive, fresh finish. Bring on the shellfish or hard, ripened cheeses.

Bottom line: A, Exotic island wine.

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Cramele Recas N/V Solara Orange Natural Wine, Romania

($24.99, available at select private wine stores)

Admittedly, the label first grabbed attention. Turning the bottle over, its source provided secondary intrigue: Wine of Romania. Extended skin contact with a blend of white grapes gives this alluring orange wine its light amber colour. Aromatics abound, ranging from apricots and flowers to tea leaf and candied citrus peel. A bright entry builds to good richness and vigour mid-palate before a dry, lightly tannic finish. It’s a great bottle to pour for a curious crowd, both as a quirky conversation piece as well as a fun partner for tapas night — or to sip while watching the hockey game.

Bottom line: A-, Unique and tasty.

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Plantaže 2021 Vranac, Montenegro

($13.99, #495085)

Across the Adriatic Sea, more or less along the same latitude as central Italy, lies Montenegro. So it makes sense that both grapes and wine would be found here. The local wine grape of choice is Vranac, parent to Primitivo and kin to Zinfandel. While Vranac is grown in more than half of Montenegro’s vineyards, there is but one example for sale on our shelves. Plantaže’s is a mouthful of sumptuous dark fruit and sweet spice, lush if lacking definition, and certainly a fun wine diversion for those that enjoy robust, comforting reds — with a bowl of hearty soup or chilli.

Bottom line: B, Tastebud curler.

The Swirl: Blasted Church’s Wine Scavenger Hunt

There’s still time to participate in Blasted Church’s Vancouver-based Wine Scavenger Hunt. Running until Oct. 29, the scavenger hunt is open to age 19 and older participants and incorporates a mix of photography and wine. To play, pick up a bottle of featured Blasted Church wine then find the real life location that inspired the label’s backdrop. Take a picture of the bottle at the spot, post it to Instagram while tagging @blastedchurch, and you get an entry. At the end of the scavenger hunt, a winner will be drawn for the ultimate Blasted Church prize pack, valued at more than $200. Check out @blastedchurch on Instagram or blastedchurch.com/ for all the details.

 

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